Flour Tortilla Taco

"Flour tortilla taco at Sonoratown is the test — a warm tortilla, your choice of filling, nothing else. The tortilla must be heated correctly — too hot and it cracks, not hot enough and it doesn't fold. The asada, carnitas, or chorizo are all correct. The pico is made fresh, the cheese is cotija, not cheddar."

"The single-tortilla format is a commitment. You cannot hide behind double-layering. The tortilla must be structurally sound and have flavor. Sonoratown's tortilla has both. The fillings are calibrated to the tortilla — not so much that the tortilla fails, enough that the combination works. This is a discipline that many taquerias cannot maintain."