Unaju (Eel Rice Box)

"The 1918 tare glaze is maintained by adding to it daily, never replacing. The kabayaki technique — steam then grill — produces an eel that is simultaneously tender and crisped. Lunch only, worth planning a day around."

"Hatanaka's unaju is the grilled eel over rice in a lacquered box that represents the traditional Tokyo lunch. The eel is from a specific supplier in Shizuoka, grilled with a proprietary sauce (soy, mirin, sugar) that has been built up over generations of repeat visits. The rice is seasoned with the eel's cooking drippings. This is the dish that Edo mae (pre-fish) refers to — the meal eaten before the fish market work began."