Kohada Nigiri

At Sushi Saito, Tokyo · Nigiri

Gizzard shad cured in salt and vinegar. The most technically revealing piece at any sushi counter — the cure time is the chef's fingerprint. Saito's version is 40 minutes, precisely.

More at Sushi Saito

  • Uni Gunkan

    Nigiri

    Sea urchin from Hokkaido's Rishiri Island, wrapped in nori. The sweetness-to-brine ratio is the test. No wasabi — Saito believes it masks the urchin's actual flavor.